Tomaž Vargazon
Let’s talk about capsaicin , the stuff that makes foods taste spicy.

让我们来谈谈辣椒素,这种物质使食物尝起来很辣。

We need to discuss two issues, the first is why it’s so omnipresent in Indian food and why people unused to spicy tastes don’t like it. Capsaicin tastes hot because it, by a quirk of random chance, binds to our heat receptors and lowers the treshold for “hot” signal. In effect it acts as a jammer and causes the sensation of “hot” to fire at normal body temperatures. The heat you feel when eating spicy foods is just your senses misfiring, because of an otherwise harmless chemical. You aren’t being burned or anything, you’re experiencing the sensation of being burnt at normal temperatures already. Clearly not everyone wants to have the feeling of having liquid silver poured into their mouth, then come out the other side a day or so later. These people don’t enjoy spicy foods, obviously.

这里有两个问题需要讨论,第一个是为什么在印度食物中如此普遍,以及为什么不习惯辛辣口味的人不喜欢它。辣椒素因为一种偶然的机遇,与我们的热感受器结合,降低了“辣”的信号阈值,所以尝起来很辣。实际上,它起到了干扰器的作用,使得在正常体温下产生“辣”的感觉。吃辛辣食物时感受到的热量只是你的感官误导了,因为这是一种无害的化学物质。你并没有被烧伤或其他什么,你只是在正常的温度下经历着被烧伤的感觉。显然,并不是每个人都想感受到液态银被倒进口中,然后一两天后再从另一端出来的感觉。这些人显然不喜欢辛辣食物。

Now as to why it’s so present in India and elsewhere. That’s because of its biological function in plants, it’s an antimicrobial agent. Capsaicin defends plans against microbal infections and, since microbes that devour plants aren’t that different from microbes that devour meat, marinating meat in capsaicin-rich marinade protects it from rotting. That’s why Indian food are so commonly meats marinated in a spicy sauce, it’s a way to keep meat edible over a prolonged period of time without refrigiration. In Europe ice was available every year but spicy plants weren’t. Indians used chemical means instead.

现在来谈谈为什么它在印度和其他地方如此普遍。这是因为在植物中它具有生物学功能,它是一种抗微生物剂。辣椒素能保护植物免受微生物感染,而且,由于吃植物的微生物与吃肉的微生物并没有太大区别,所以在富含辣椒素的腌料中腌制肉类可以防止腐烂。这就是为什么印度食物中经常有用辛辣酱腌制的肉类,这是一种在不需要冷藏的情况下延长肉类可食用期的方法。在欧洲,每年都有冰,但是辛辣植物却不常见。印度人选择了化学手段。

That’s why Indian cuisine is spicy and that’s why most Europeans are not used of it. Some love it though, I personally like my food to be a little spicy at times, when used correctly it adds enormously to flavor. There are plenty of people who consider spices to “mask” the flavor of the dish, then use salt freely. Salt does the same thing to the dish as capsaicin does. Adding aromatic spices is no different sauteeing onions before adding meat to the pan. It’s just a different approach to accomplish the same thing: creating an enjoyable dish.

这就是为什么印度菜很辣,也是为什么大多数欧洲人不习惯辣味的原因。然而,有些人却很喜欢,我个人有时候也喜欢我的食物稍微辣一点,当辣椒素被正确使用时,它可以极大地增添风味。有很多人认为香料会“掩盖”菜肴的味道,所以会自由使用盐。盐对菜肴的作用与辣椒素相似。添加芳香的香料和在锅里加肉之前先炒洋葱是没有什么区别的。只是采用了不同的方法来实现同样的目标:创造一个美味的菜肴。