汉服市场规模可能超数百亿人民币，你认为汉服是如何成为当下的一股热潮的？

Annie Ruth Harrison (安妮 路得 克里逊)

Hanfu is a term used for the historical styles of clothing worn by the Han people in China. It originated in ancient times.
It eventually became the everyday form of dress for women until the Cultural Revolution, when it was abandoned in mainland China as a symbol of the West and the bourgeoisie. Nowadays, it is acceptable in mainland China again and is often worn on important formal occasions such as weddings or the Lunar New Year.—Wikipedia
I’ve heard various opinions on it. Some see it as reviving culture, taking back their heritage and doing away with Western beauty standards. I say amen to that. While others see it as bringing back patriarchy and trying take away from the women’s equality gained after the Cultural Revolution. This is likely due to the roles women played while wearing hanfu in the past. Some people also fear the rise of Chinese nationalism. (As we say in the Southern US, bless their hearts. I’ll let someone else provide the translation for that vernacular phrase.)
Hanfu has transformed from a niche Gen-Z hobby to a massive consumer market of 400 million people in just a few years.
The rise of Hanfu is driven by a mix of rising nationalism, savvy local brands, and amplified social hype amongst Chinese Gen Zers.
For brands, Hanfu’s enduring popularity with young Chinese proves that consumers want brands to recognize their cultural heritage and break away from a Western-centric beauty standard.
According to Alibaba, over 20 million people bought Hanfu last year on the shopping site Taobao. In July 2019, Alibaba launched its Gutao App, a social platform dedicated to Hanfu shopping to meet the skyrocketing consumer interests. Shisanyu, a DTC Hanfu label founded in 2016, climbed atop the site’s 10-best-selling brands list last year and is now worth 16-million-dollars.
It seems to be more enduring than just a trend. Young people are proud of their culture and heritage. I watch the phenomenon with fascination as well as pride for the young Chinese people making their own way in the world. They are proud of their past, boldly wearing and styling Hanfu in the present, and I think the future for hanfu is bright and limitless.

Now young people aren’t just wearing hanfu but they are mixing and matching and making their own fashion category referred to as “汉洋折衷”(the middle way between Chinese and Western styles).

The historical accuracy of the patternmaking, the craftsmanship of the embroideries, and the hours of artisanal labors spent are all important metrics in uating a Hanfu’s quality.
But Hanfu fashion content is only a small part of that. The bulk of this trend consists of posts about traditional cultural hobbies people practice while wearing Hanfu, such as martial arts or finger dances. Hanfu KOLs have therefore expanded content from Hanfu fashion to a full-scale revival of Chinese traditions. @Shiyin, who appeared on the cover of US Vogue‘s March issue as the poster child for China’s Hanfu movement, has been busy launching a video series called “What is luxury” to demonstrate Chinese luxury traditions pre-Louis-Vuitton. @Gu Xiaosi, another major Hanfu KOL, pivoted her usual Hanfu beauty content to introductory videos about Chinese tea ceremonies and art history.
This is what excites me so much about the young people in China. They are taking back their cultural identity and that is beautiful to behold. I imagine their ancestors would be so pleased to see them going back to their roots, claiming cultural identity, being proud of their uniquely Eastern way of doing things.
For many young Chinese, wearing Hanfu has served as a potent gesture that reminds them of their cultural identity and inspires them to delve deeper into that heritage. Necessarily, this heightened cultural awareness will raise the bar for international brands wanting to launch Hanfu-inspired or China-inspired products.—Jiang Daily
There are some disagreements in the Hanfu community. Some believe only historically accurate versions can be worn, while others are more accepting of what has become known as “fairy” clothing. While others opt to mix ancient styles with modern western clothing. But one thing that does unite them is Xingzhi.
Xingzhi means the form, shape, and rule of hanfu, according to the history. It decides the shape of each part of the clothing, the cutting technique, the position of the vent, and other elements that affect the overall appearance of hanfu. All the interviewees told CGTN no matter what changed over time, xingzhi shouldn't be changed. —CGTN
I’m just enthralled with the beauty and gracefulness of it. And I am happy to see Chinese youth connecting with their past.


汉服是中国汉族人服饰的历史样式，它起源于古代。
它最终成为了中国妇女的日常着装形式，直到WG时在中国大陆作为西方和资产阶级的象征（symbol of the West and the bourgeoisie）被遗弃。如今，它在中国大陆再次被接受，经常在婚礼或农历新年等重要的正式场合穿着。-维基百科

我听过各种各样的看法。一些人认为这是文化的复兴，传统的回归，对西方审美标准的摈弃，对此我表示赞成。而另一些人则认为这是重提父权制，试图剥夺在WG后妇女获得的平等地位，这很可能是因为过去女性在穿汉服时所扮演的角色所致。还一些人还担心中国民族主义的兴起。

汉服在短短几年内就从一个小众的Z世代爱好转变成了拥有4亿人口的庞大的消费市场。
汉服的崛起是由不断上升的民族主义、精明的本土品牌以及在中国Z世代中被放大的社会炒作共同推动的。

对于品牌而言，汉服在中国年轻人中的持久流行证明了中国消费者希望品牌认可自己的文化遗产，摆脱以西方为中心的审美标准。
据阿里巴巴称，去年有超过2000万人在淘宝网上购买了汉服。2019年7月，阿里巴巴推出了社交平台古淘 App，致力于汉服购物，以满足消费者日益高涨的兴趣。成立于2016年的DTC汉服品牌“十三余”去年登上了该网站十大畅销品牌榜首，目前价值1600万美元。

中国的年轻人为自己的文化和遗产感到自豪，它似乎比一种潮流更持久，我对这一现象既感到着迷，又为中国的年轻人能在世界上独辟蹊径感到高兴。他们为自己的过去感到骄傲，现在大胆地穿着汉服，设计汉服，我认为汉服的未来是无限光明的。
现在的年轻人不仅仅是穿着汉服，他们还在混合搭配，打造自己的时尚类别，这被称为“汉洋折衷”(中西合璧）。
版型的历史准确性、刺绣的工艺和手工劳动的时间都是评价汉服质量的重要指标。

但汉服的时尚内容只是其中的一小部分，这一潮流的主要内容是关于人们在穿着汉服时的传统文化爱好，如武术或手指舞的。汉服“意见领袖（KOL）”将内容从汉服时尚扩展到了全面复兴中国的传统文化。作为中国汉服运动的代言人，曾出现在美国《Vogue》杂志3月刊封面的@Shiyin（十音），一直在忙于推出一个名为“什么是奢侈品（What is luxury）”的系列视频，展示在路易威登出现之前的中国的奢侈品传统。另一位主要的汉服“意见领袖（KOL）”@Gu Xiaosi（顾小思），她把她一贯的汉服美女内容导入到了介绍中国茶道和艺术史的视频中。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处

这就是中国年轻人让我如此兴奋的原因，他们正在找回他们的文化身份。我想他们的祖先会很高兴看到他们回到自己的根，认同自己的文化身份，为自己独特的东方式的做事方式感到自豪。

对许多中国的年轻人来说，穿着汉服是一种有力的姿态，以提醒他们自己的文化身份，并激励他们深入研究这一传统。当然，这种文化意识的提高将推高国际品牌推出汉服或中国风格产品的门槛。——长江日报
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处

汉服界也存在一些分歧。有些人认为只能穿历史上准确的版本，另一些人则更接受被称为“仙服”的服装，而其他人则选择将古代风格与现代西方服装相结合。但有一件事能使他们团结起来，那就是形制。
形制的意思是汉服的类型，外观和规制。它决定了服装各部分的形状、剪裁手法、袖口的位置等影响汉服整体外观的因素。所有的受访者都告诉CGTN，不管时间如何推移，形制不应该改变。

我被汉服的美丽和优雅迷住了，我很高兴看到中国的年轻人与他们的过去联系在一起。

Annie Ruth Harrison (安妮 路得 克里逊)
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处

Are the pictures from my answer Qipao or hanfu or something else? I thought qipao was very tight fitting like this:


我的回答中的照片是旗袍还是汉服或者其他什么？我觉得旗袍很贴身，就像这样：

Xane Feng
Tue
Yes, that is the Qipao. I’m referring to the passage that supposedly claimed Hanfu was worn until the Cultural Revolution, which is inaccurate.


是的，那是旗袍。我说的是那段据说声称汉服在WG前一直穿着的引文，这是不准确的。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处

Annie Ruth Harrison (安妮 路得 克里逊)

Ah, okay now I understand what you meant.


啊，好吧，现在我明白你的意思了。

Zw Zhu
The renaissance of Hanfu is because it is really very, very beautiful. I once saw a girl in Hanfu and her girlfriend eating ice cream in the Kuanzhai Alley in Chengdu. She was sitting under the pavilion by the small river at night, with red lights shining on her face and sparkling water. I thought that the daughter of the gods had gone down to earth.


汉服的复兴是因为它真的非常非常美丽。我曾经在成都的宽窄巷子里看到一个汉服女孩和她的朋友在吃冰淇淋。晚上，她坐在小河边的亭子下，脸上泛着红光，水面波光粼粼，我还以为是众神之女下凡了。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处

Julie Parkinson
It’s tragic that so many young people dont appreciate their wonderful traditional clothes and just want jeans and t-shirts.I go to India regularly and always wear shalwar kamiz.Cant wait to visit China but I don’t know how people would respond if I wore Chinese clothes ���


悲剧的是，在印度有这么多年轻人不欣赏他们的传统服装，他们只想要牛仔裤和T恤。我经常去印度，总是穿着沙尔瓦尔卡米兹（译注：shalwar kamiz，阿富汗传统服饰）。我迫不及待地想访问中国，但我不知道如果我穿中国的汉服人们会如何反应���

Zw Zhu
Times are moving forward, and jeans and T-shirts will one day become history. Please be optimistic. Traditional clothing has a mature aesthetic foundation and rich cultural connotation, and it will not disappear from people's vision. No matter what clothes you wear, a foreigner walking on the streets of China will always get attention. Chinese people like to see their own culture accepted by foreigners. I hope that the pandemic will end as soon as possible so that everyone can fly freely.


时代在前进，牛仔裤和T恤终有一天会成为历史，请保持乐观。传统服饰具有成熟的美学基础和丰富的文化内涵，它不会从人们的视野中消失。无论你穿什么衣服，走在中国街头的外国人总会引起注意，中国人喜欢看到自己的文化被外国人接受。我希望这场大流行能尽快结束，让每个人都能自由飞行。

Duncan Yum
It’s a sign that things are getting better, that people have wealth to spend on “non-essential items” including on traditional dresses.


这是一个迹象，表明情况正在好转，人们有闲钱花在包括传统服装在内的“非必需品”上。

Annie Ruth Harrison (安妮 路得 克里逊)

Yes, that is also an excellent point.


是的，这也是一个极好的关注点。

Julie Parkinson
This is lovely.I wish the same was happening in India.Such a shame to reject the beautiful traditional clothes.


太美丽了，我真希望印度也也有同样的事情，拒绝漂亮的传统服装真是太可惜了。

Ritik Anand
India never lost its traditional clothes. What are ya smoking??


印度从来没有失去过它的传统服装，你抽了啥？？

Jack Early
Are any wereing the commoner dress or only the nobility style?


他们穿的是平民服装还是贵族服装？

Annie Ruth Harrison (安妮 路得 克里逊)

Of that I’m not certain but yes, nobility and the public had different styles, different materials, even different colors. I believe I’d read somewhere in the past the first a time only the emperor could wear yellow. But I may be confusing that.


我不确定，但是是的，贵族和平民的服装有不同的风格，不同的材料，甚至不同的颜色。我相信我过去在某个地方读过一篇文章，说只有皇帝才能穿黄色的衣服。但我可能弄混了。

Jow Yuzo
How come boys don't show?


为什么没有男孩的图片？

Annie Ruth Harrison (安妮 路得 克里逊)

Google “male hanfu” and some of these will pop up.


谷歌“男性汉服”，你可以找到很多。

Li Yu Tong
Boys coming :)

This is what we called as 飞鱼服 - Flying Fish Clothes from Ming Dynasty, originally served as the uniform of 锦衣卫 - ”The guards in splendid uniform”.
The 飞鱼服 - Flying Fish Clothes in history drama:

男孩们的图片来了：）

这就是我们所说的飞鱼服 - 明朝飞鱼服原为锦衣卫 - 即“穿着华丽制服的卫兵”的军服。
历史剧中的飞鱼服：

Annie Ruth Harrison (安妮 路得 克里逊)

Those kids!!! ��� they are precious!!


那些孩子！！他们真是宝贝！！

Chan Roberts
Well, I think Hanfu is more than just a fad.
Chinese since the turn of the 21st century have often mixed and matched various Western styles - ripped jeans that were popular back in the 1980s, 1990s man-buns, grunge, bib-overalls, one-piece pantsuits from the 1970s, and so on. Even the qipao was a variation on a Western style dress back in the 1920s. Hanfu, I think, is a break from this notion that one has to emulate the West.
I once asked my students why they wear Western clothing instead of Chinese clothing. Their answer was that Western clothing was more “convenient” (meaning it was more practical and easier to wear).
I’m just thankful that the baggy pants worn below the butt cheeks hasn’t caught on here in China.


我认为汉服不仅仅是一种时尚。
进入21世纪以来，中国人经常混合搭配各种西式风格——上世纪80年代流行的破洞牛仔裤、90年代流行的男式小发髻、邋遢裤、围嘴工装裤、70年代流行的连体裤等等。甚至连旗袍也是20世纪20年代西式服装的变体。我认为，汉服打破了人们必须效仿西方审美的观念。
我曾经问我的学生为什么他们穿西式服装而不是中式服装，他们的回答是，西式服装更“方便”（也就是说它更实用，更容易穿着）。
我庆幸那种屁股下面穿的宽松裤子在中国还没流行起来。