The Fascinating History of Lemonade

柠檬饮料的有趣的历史


What could be better than a cold glass of lemonade on a hot summer day? People throughout history have been downing this puckery thirst quencher.

在炎炎夏日还有什么东西比一杯清凉可口的柠檬饮料更棒的呢?纵观历史,人们一直以来都喜欢这种冰凉解渴的饮料。

Water, sugar and lemon juice: The recipe hasn't changed much in more than 1,000 years. Tart or sweet, pink or yellow, clear, cloudy or carbonated, for as long as life has been handing out lemons, people the world over — from the ancient Egyptians to?Beyoncé?— have been making lemonade.

水、糖、柠檬汁。配方一千年多年未变。酸或甜,粉红或黄,透明或浑浊或加了碳酸,只要生活中有柠檬,从古埃及时代到碧昂丝名声响亮的今天的全世界的人都会制作柠檬饮料。
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The exact origin?of the lemon itself has not been easy to ascertain, but new research has clarified its lineage as a sour orange and citron hybrid. A February 2018?study?in the science journal Nature reveals that the discovery of fossilized leaves in the Yunnan province of China proves citrus has been around since the late Miocene epoch, some 8 million years ago.

虽然人们还未弄清楚柠檬的确切起源,但是最新的研究表明,这种水果来源于桔子和圆佛手柑的杂交品种。一份2018年2月份发布在科学杂志《自然》上的研究报告介绍了在中国云南省的树叶化石的发现,这项发现证明了柠檬大约在800万年前的中新世开始就已经出现了。

An Ancient Lineage
The earliest record of the precursor to lemonade hails from the Mediterranean coast of medi Egypt. Kashkab was made from fermented barley combined with mint, rue, black pepper and citron leaf. Next time you're at the juice bar, ask your mixologist to whip you up a frothy mug of kashkab! Or how about a shot of sweet and tangy qatarmizat instead? Thanks to the chronicles of poet and traveler Nasir-i-Khusraw, who wrote accounts of 10th-century Egyptian life, and to Jewish books and documents in the Cairo Genizah, we know that the medi Jewish community in Cairo consumed, traded and exported bottles of the sugary lemon juice concoction called qatarmizat through the 13th century.

一个古老的出身
最早的关于柠檬水前身的记录来自中世纪埃及的地中海沿岸。Kashkab是由发酵的大麦与薄荷,芸香,黑胡椒和香橼叶混合而成。下次你去果汁店时,请让你的果汁制作师傅给你来一杯泡沫Kashkab!要不然,你觉得来一个甜蜜而浓郁的qatarmizat的特写怎么样呢?多亏了诗人和旅行家Nasir-i-Khusraw编写的关于10世纪埃及生活的记录,以及开罗Genizah的犹太书籍和文件,我们得以13世纪的开罗的中世纪犹太人社区消费、买卖和出口瓶装被称为qatarmizat的含糖混合柠檬汁的情况。

While the?citron?(like a lemon but larger, with a super thick rind and not much pulp or juice) was likely known by the ancient Jews and throughout the Mediterranean before the time of Christ, there's no proof that lemons were around in pre-Islamic times. The mosaics of Rome and frescoes of?Pompeii?depict images of citrus fruits resembling lemons and oranges, but there's no paleobotanical or written evidence that they existed there. The earliest written reference to the lemon tree is in a 10th-century Arabic book on farming by Qustus al-Rumi. And in the late 12th century, Ibn Jami', the personal physician to the Muslim leader Saladin, wrote a treatise on the lemon, bringing it to the attention of a wider Mediterranean audience.

虽然在基督时代之前,古代犹太人和整个地中海地区生活的人可能都知道香橼的存在(香橼像柠檬,但更大,有超厚的果皮,没有多少果肉或果汁),但没有证据证明柠檬在伊斯兰教兴起前的时代就已经存在了。罗马的马赛克和庞贝的壁画描绘了类似柠檬和橘子的柑橘类水果的图像,但没有古植物学的证据或书面证据表明它们那个时候就已经存在于那里了。最早的关于柠檬树的书面参考资料是在一本由Qustus al-Rumi撰写的关于10世纪阿拉伯农业的文书中。在12世纪后期,穆斯林领导人萨拉丁的私人医生伊本·贾米(Ibn Jami)写了一篇关于柠檬的论著,引起了地中海沿岸人民的广泛注意。

Lemons Show Up In Paris ...
Flash forward to 17th century Europe. Lemonade?debuted?in Paris on August 20, 1630. Made of sparkling water, lemon juice and?honey, vendors sold it from tanks strapped to their backs. While popular across Europe, lemonade became so fashionable in Paris that in 1676 the vendors incorporated and formed a unx called the?Compagnie de Limonadiers.?The?lemonade craze?even helped Paris fend off the plague.

柠檬出现在巴黎
我们把目光投向17世纪的欧洲。柠檬水于1630年8月20日在巴黎首次亮相。它由苏打水,柠檬汁和蜂蜜制成,商人们将它装入绑在背上的水箱中出售。柠檬水风靡欧洲,它在巴黎变得如此时髦,以至于到了1676年,这些商人们合作建立了一个名为“汽水协会”的工会。柠檬水热潮甚至帮助巴黎抵御住了瘟疫。

Britain's contribution to the lemonade craze came by way of chemist Joseph Priestley who invented an apparatus for making?carbonated water. By the 1780s, Johann Schweppe, a German-Swiss jeweler, had developed a new method of carbonation using a compression pump that made mass production more efficient. By the 1830s, ready availability of?Schweppes?fizzy lemonade had stymied the growth of Europe's lemonade stands.

英国人对柠檬水热潮的贡献来自化学家约瑟夫.普里斯特利,他发明了一种制造碳酸水的设备。到18世纪80年代,德国瑞士双重国籍的珠宝商约翰.施维普使用压缩泵开发了一种新的碳酸化方法,使大规模生产更加高效。到19世纪30年代,施维普斯泡腾柠檬水的现成供应已经遏制住了欧洲柠檬水售卖小摊数量的增长。
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... Then In America
By the 18th century, lemonade had made its way to America along with waves of European immigrants. During the Victorian era, the women's?temperance movement?pushed lemonade as an alternative to alcohol. One Sunkist slogan of the day read: "Good-bye to liquor, here's to lemonade." From 1877-1881, the White House banned alcohol from all state dinners and other functions. Although President Rutherford B. Hayes made the decision himself as a way to court the Prohibition Party, critics of the ban dubbed his wife Lucy, a renowned teetotaler,?"Lemonade Lucy"?and the moniker stuck. It's fun to imagine how lips must have puckered when in lieu of alcohol she might have served Isabella Beeton's?lemonade recipe?from the 1861 Victorian classic "The Book of Household Management."

然后是在美国
到了18世纪,柠檬水已经随着欧洲移民的浪潮进入了美国。在维多利亚时代,女性的戒酒运动将柠檬水作为酒精的替代品。当时的Sunkist的一个口号上写着:“再见酒,这是柠檬水。”从1877年至1881年,白宫禁止在所有国宴和其他种类的宴会上提供酒精。尽管美国总统卢瑟福·B·海耶斯决定将禁酒派告上法庭,但该禁令的支持者称总统的妻子露西是一位有名的禁酒主义者,她的“柠檬水露西”的绰号很有名。完成于1861年维多利亚时代的经典著作——《家务管理之书》的作者伊莎贝拉·贝顿的代替酒精的柠檬水配方可能会让她撅起嘴巴,光是想象一下都会觉得很有趣。

The Circus Connection
Even the circus has had a starring role in lemonade's long history. By the 19th century, both ice and the traveling circus had hit the scene and both were taking off. The first known mention lixing?pink lemonade?to the circus comes from West Virginia's Wheeling Register in 1879. Circus lore has many tales of how its lemonade turned pink, but historians find two of them most viable. One story from 1912 goes like this: A concession worker "invents" pink lemonade when he accidentally drops red-colored cinnamon candies into a vat of regular lemonade. In proverbial "the show must go on" style, he serves the lemonade anyway and the people lap it up.

柠檬饮料与马戏团的联系
即便是马戏团也在柠檬饮料的悠久的历史发展中发挥着重要的作用。到了19世纪,冰马戏团和流动马戏团登上了历史舞台。第一个为人所知的将粉红柠檬水与马戏团联系起来的是1879年来自西弗吉尼亚州的Wheeling Register马戏团。马戏团的传说中有很多关于它的柠檬水如何是变成粉红色的故事,历史学家从中找出了两篇比较可靠的故事。其中一个发生在1912年的故事是这样的:当一位特许工人意外地将红色肉桂糖放入一大桶普通柠檬水中时, “发明”出了粉红色的柠檬水。按照众所周知的“节目必须继续”的风格,他总会为马戏观众提供柠檬水,人们会把它们喝光。

The other story, from 1857, is just plain gross: A harried concession worker, in need of water to make a fresh batch of lemonade for an impatient line of thirsty rubbernecks, grabs the first liquid he sees and it turns out to be a tub of wash water in which a performer has just wrung out her dirty pink tights. He uses it to make his new-and-improved "strawberry lemonade" and the crowd goes wild. Story has it that from then on sales doubled and henceforth no top notch circus was ever without pink lemonade.

另一个故事发生在1857年,过程很简单:一个忙碌的特许工人,需要水来制作一批新鲜的柠檬水,用于供应那些口渴的消费者,这些口渴的消费者会选择他们看到的第一种液体,结果是他们看到一个站在浴缸中的演员拧干她的粉红色紧身裤的脏水。这名工人用这些脏水来制作新的、改良的“草莓柠檬水”,人群为之癫狂。故事大概就是这样,就是从那时起,柠檬水的销量增加了一倍,从此以后任何一个一流的马戏团都会供应粉红色的柠檬水。

Tart or sweet, pink or yellow, clear, cloudy or carbonated, what better way to face the world head-on than with a cold glass of nature's whoopass in hand? Lemonade abides as the classic metaphor for good old American stick-to-itiveness, making-do and pluck. So lemons, you do you. Life, we've got this.

酸或甜,粉红或黄色,透明,混浊或碳酸化,有什么更好的方式能够迎合大众的口味和需求呢?柠檬被比喻为美国人民坚忍不拔、敢作敢为的精神。柠檬啊,你做你自己吧,我们已经得到了我们想要得到的东西了。